AN EVENING WITH ANN ROSE OF PROFUMALCHEMICO: ALCHEMIST, PARFUMER AND PHILOSOPHER
''Follow your nose - it's always right!''
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| © The Bible of Niche Perfumes |
On the last Tuesday of August, and last Tuesday of my summer stay in Italy, I persuaded my mother to join me on a trip to Modena.
The city, a rich cultural and historical centre for opera music, sports car manufacturings, and culinary heritage has revealed itself surprisingly enough to host an important innovative olfactory scene.
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| © The Bible of Niche Perfumes |
Our first stop is Spezieria and Acetaia of St Peter's Monastery.
Its former spice shop, now turned into a monastery products store, offers a selection of various oils and essences produced by Italian monasteries.
The staff is kind enough to let us have a glimpse at their acetaia too, where the balsamic vinegar rests in wooden kegs.
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| © The Bible of Niche Perfumes |
It's a matter of minutes following a look at the courtyard/herb garden that the most unexpected rainstorm prevents from following the plans.
Thinking it will be raining not more than half an hour, we quickly have a tour of St Peter's Church and its monumental pipe organs, recently restored.
But I start to worry, as time passes and the rain only seems to increase, that we might not make it to the other stop of our tour, so we cover the camera with a plastic bag and head to the only Perfumery Museum in all Emilia Romagna.
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| credits: ModenaToday |
Lucky enough to occasionally get under porticoes, we arrive at PRALC bathed in rain.
Covered by greenery, I doubt the laboratory/shop/museum wouldn't attire even the most olfactory neglecting human passing nearby to at least have a peek at the windows shop.
Anne Rose, the perfumer behind the homonym line and founder of PRALC, welcomes us in an already premonitory mystical atmosphere.
We introduce ourselves as predominantly interested in having a look at the museum, and potentially find out more about the line.
But Anne Rose urges us with natural grace to make us understand how it is impossible to cross her space without organically attempting to get to know her and her work.
So we take a seat, get offered a candy, and what starts as an introductory friendly chat naturally shifts to an almost exhaustive interview.
When leaving three hours later, both my mom and I feel in a never experienced before stage of enchanted intellectual turmoil, driven by the magnetic allure of Ann Rose.
If I had some set expectations before arriving, now leaving I only have more questions.
When I realise during our time together that Ann Rose is being extremely generous with her time and knowledge and maybe I should get notes, it almost feels like an already missed opportunity.
Should I have recorded it? Or come up with a questionnaire?
Usually perfumers I met have been very distant and almost untouchable figures, as aware of the power they exercise on a mortal like me, and their management of time almost felt controlled if not manipulative.
It can be hard to get them to share a bit of their biography and their creative approach, but with Ann Rose, being an independent perfumer, it was anything but an unattainable institutional cold conversation.
We chat about her fascinating and unusual training, while I attempt to learn a bit about alchemy.
We also get the privilege to catch Ann Rose doing customer service with a young local, and every ordinary nuance of the exchange becomes for us outsiders/observers of magnetic allure.
What follows is therefore an almost complete adaptation of our conversation, or at least of the notes I managed to write down.
I divided the article into three sections, starting with PRALC as a laboratory/museum,
followed by an introduction to Ann Rose the alchemist, perfumer and philosopher,
concluding with an overview of the fragrances we tested and some others Ann Rose was kind enough to share with me their descriptions.
I hope this will serve as a further invite for us as a blog to renew a more professional interview with Ann Rose, but especially we hope to raise curiosity in her reality, and whenever around Emilia Romagna, to visit her independent museum and laboratory.
Ann Rose Contacts:
PRALC Piazzale Torti 9, 41121 Modena, IT
+39 059210020 / +39 3356188683
annarosa.ferrari@hotmail.it
Instagram: profumalchemico_anne_rose
Youtube: Anna Rosa Ferrari (Ann Rose Il Naso Alchimista)
Facebook: Ann Rose ProfumAlchemico
Website: ProfumAlchemico.it
most notably a museum, an alchemy and perfumery laboratory and its shop, but it is highly unfair to be so reductionist.
In Ann Rose words, PRALC is ‘’a multi-site opening to infinite voyages’'.
With over 300 natural fragrances exhibited, going there for a mere perfumery consultation or shopping is quite naive (as I did myself).
Instead, it's a complete, personal and collective multisensory experience.
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| credits: ModenaToday |
It requires you to be a good listener because the products offered are all exclusively created by Ann Rose.
All of the 300+ fragrances capture the study and research behind the final olfactory translation, and cannot be simplified to personal taste preferences.
The space itself is a sort of second home for Ann Rose.
Entering it requires you to be mindful and open to learn and respect Ann Rose’s work and research ethos and modus operandi.
Sight is also highly engaged in being surrounded by walls covered in ampoules, books and various creative visual art instalments communicating with the fragrances.
For example, the fragrance line ''The Twelve Messengers of Profumalchemico'' (aka The Mystics) is paired close to the checkout with wooden cutlery (an important theme in Ann Rose’s work is in fact a research on multisensory fragrances, particularly focusing on edible aromas).
We haven’t managed to visit the museum this time, but it is undoubtedly the very first stop on my list for my next stay in Italy.
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| © The Bible of Niche Perfumes |
PRALC offers numerous custom experiences, from didactics to olfactory gymnastics or ordinary fragrance shopping assistance.
It undoubtedly represents a contemporary olfactory and multisensory excellency facing the everyday challenges of an ongrowing corporate society and thereby perfumery too, where art and olfactory creations are not limited to sensorial hierarchy and marketing, but instead manages to preserve Ann Rose’s unique alchemy and intellectual legacy.
La Filosofia ProfumAlchemica: Fondamenti, storia, Essenza, her treatise and undergraduate thesis, demonstrates an innovative interdisciplinary approach to humanistics, by intersecting olfaction to alchemy as means to trans-human experiences.
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| credits: Accademia del Profumo |
I have to admit my limited knowledge and understanding of alchemy, so unfortunately I wasn’t the adequate person to develop a conversation on the topic, but Ann Rose generously introduced me to her alchemic journey.
She quotes Galileo Galilei, Jung and Leonardo Da Vinci as her main influences, as alchemy for her is ''a scientific matter based on Hermeneutics rather than esotericism''.
On how alchemy, philosophy and olfaction could ever find a common ground, Ann Rose says:
’’Alchemy attracts us through pleasure, therefore through our senses. This pleasure has to be addressed, steered.
[...] People are guided unbiased in harmony with the universe, mainly through their real sensory experiences. [...] We also have the power of smell, of perfume, that is an invisible power.’’
For Ann Rose, ''an alchemist’ main purpose is philanthropy'', and just like Jung, she focuses on ''the good unconscious to use in life'',
with her work and olfactory approach appearing primarily of positivistic, and profoundly humanistic nature.
She reminds me for instance that ''smell is the only sense not linked to a capital vice''.
At the same time, if:
even the underworlds have to deal with it.’’
This research of underworld versus the sublime is often tangible or even officially reprised in her work, as we will later see in her Crysto, Le Nuvole Passage Clavis Universalis or Agata, Alla Ricerca di…
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| © The Bible of Niche Perfumes |
I wonder, speculating on the various religious and Christian themes that appear in her work, if she defines herself religious, or of Christian belief, but I get reminded that ''an alchemist for definition is an atheist''.
I am still curious of who influenced her on an olfactory side, and she blushes gently recalling the time her mom bathed her in violet essence to attend the local nuns-run kindergarten.
For her, that smell, the act of smelling of violet, ''unconsciously served as the meaning to acceptance and hospitality''.
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| credits: ProfumAlchemico |
Her intimidating scent catalogue will easily accommodate everyone's olfactory needs, and comes at honest price points, especially considering the extensive research and work behind them.
While I find myself in disagreement on her stance against synthetics, I cannot have but respect for her mission in working exclusively with natural aromas, as I’m aware of how using exclusively Grasse suppliers it’s often a risky challenge, especially when it comes to the financial repercussions it might have on independent creators and brands; but her mission to vegan (apart from ES Kleos Ape Regina which contains beeswax) and natural formulas is mainly driven by her alchemic ethos and the ProfumAlchemico thought.
Below the fragrances we smelled, and discussed.
Ann Rose was kind enough to send me the english translation of some of her work that I will share at the end of the paragraph. I haven't edited her words in order to not alter her intents and descriptions.
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A triumphant jasmine scent that has a candour, a veiled fragility to it.
Ann Rose says she never wears it, and with a smile on my face I think I can vaguely understand why the smell of it might cause so much vulnerability.
As I took home a small decant of it, I have coined it as the ultimate scent of introspection in my collection.
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| credits: Fragrantica |
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| credits: Fragrantica |
Exhibited and sold at the Ferrari Museum, the scent managed to fascinate the philosopher Bernard Bourgeois, of whom you can ask at PRALC to view the review.
Conceived under the sign of the Scorpion, born on the 29th day of February, the transmutating month, of a leap year, 2012, it returns to Earth once every four years.
Tormenting. It is the transmutative perfumalchemic, first born of the four Knights of Renaissance.
It is only in the wake of Onirico Albatros that Rosa meets the sea. The vital, ancestral passion arising from the depths of an earlier time... and a 69 gets created, whereby above turns into below and viceversa, before any judgment can distinguish between good and evil. Before the beginning can actually begin.
It is the true original vital force which the big albatross gathers with his powerful wings from the foam of the waves.
Onirico Albatros enables to "transform vampires into saints", to turn experiences of all sorts, even the most burdensome, into new creative and beneficial energy.
17 ancient plant-based raw materials, full of pheromones sensuous yet fresh, for a vital/olfactory experience that is moving, tormenting, visceral.
69 is its number.
Despite being a male, like every Perfumalchemic it is born for the good of any person, regardless of gender.
mi si strazia il cuore che ti do alsol l'animarriva lasciate le gambe a milleleghe sottoil mare
f.a.r
Struggling/Agonizing is the heart [oppure : A mangled heart] I'm leaving to you as my soul reaches for the Sun, limbs plunging a thousand leagues into the sea. A.R.F.
In Ann Rose’s words:Collana i Cavalieri della Rinascita (numero 69)
ES KLEOS APE REGINA
The only non-vegan fragrance by Ann Rose, the honey-centered scent with Mirella Fregni as Godmother, is a nostalgic hug reminding the sweetness of candied fruits. Runny honey with echoing citruses at the opening and a comforting ambery aspect to it in the drydown.
In Ann Rose’s words:
Ann Rose was kind enough to provide us additional information of some of the fragrances we haven't managed to go through together. Here they followed:
Rare Fragrances Born of and for Research
Materialise in such collections as :
1. The Cappuccetto Rosso (Red Riding Hoods)
Open the world to imagination, the great human capability directly connected with olfactory sense, hence with one's inner self.
2. The Arrowed Perfumes
Vectors that help us find our very desires and pursue them smoothly.
3. The Olfactory Portraits
Conceived through an artistic and alchemical process, akin to what happens in visual arts and writing, whereby Anna Rosa Ferrari depicts the harmonious soul manifesting itself as the true essence of each individual person.
4. The Mystics
Also known as the twelve messengers of Profumalchemico. They spread the olfactory epiphany of spiritual states aimed at Soul's evolution.
5. The Four Knights of Rebirth
Two males and two females, designed to extend the principles of The Philosopher's Stone with a view to achieving rebirth.
6. The Explorers
(to follow later)
…..................................................................................................................................................
The Twelve Messengers of Profumalchemico (aka The Mystics)
1. Wondrous Winter
The non-perfume profumalchemico, also friend to those with a sensitive nose. Expansion of balsamic olfactory notes with citrus undertones.
Aimed at persons and places, relieves physical and spiritual nausea.
Improves one's mood, immune defences and serves as an antiseptic. When worne on the neckline ensures an immediate benefit.
Ideal both at home and at work.
Assists in making driving agreeable and mitigates travel sickness.
2. Verbena
The communication profumalchemico, endowed with green, fresh and citrus tones.
For body and environment. Opens to a true communication and counters the so-called “spiritual vampirism” of those who, unawares, in their social interactions tend to absorb our positive energy and leaves us exhausted. Facilitates communication with one's self while promoting cordiality with other people.
When worn on the skin Verbena emphasizes its colourful floral and mellow feelings.
Ideally nebulized in any environment.
3. Wafer
The profumalchemico to always carry with you for an ideal olfactory snack, with notes of citrus at first, then agreeably vanilla.
Fresh and sweet at the same time, joyful and welcoming like our skin when we are at peace. Reminiscent of human skin's good scent as perceived by the young and emotional soul dwelling inside each of us... and the others will smile back. An olfactory-affectionate game along an inclusive path of cheerful rehearsal.
4. Orubuor
Anagram of the name Uroburo, the alchemical snake biting his own tail. Orubuor is the profumalchemico that allows to live here and now the continuous flow of becoming, and to let go amid the heavenly fragrance of one's flowing Soul. The predominant tangerine note leads back to the innocent happiness of perceptions and entrusts us to fresh olfactory notes resonating to our truthful inner self.
5. Siddharta
Born on Sep. 7, 2008 as the syncopated profumalchemico, the very soul of the traveller inside us who opens up to an inner journey between east and west, to search and learn. Pheromones of confidence float amid the development of unprejudiced awareness, manifestations of the instant when the two polarities cross [8] and spark a new vital fire. Floral, citrus notes transmute into a syncopated concert with patchouli, vetiver and sandal.
6. Agata, alla ricerca di... (in search of...)
Born on June 20, 2010 as the profumalchemico of the great pause, before initiating the search for what is desired by our Spirit. It is the book of our life, filled with the events that have shaped our uniqueness and charm. Agatha is not the name of a woman. It alludes to the green stone, as green as the basin.
7. Fiamma
The profumalchemico of evolving sensuality. Seductive, elegant, confounding. The indomitable lady of the night, jasmine, gets seduced in a wingbeat by a harmonious embrace of tonka bean. Fiamma sublimes eroticism into a velvety language expressing balance and elegance. Fiamma lands from an ancient inner journey symphonically reconciling ingredients of opposite nature. Unveils the essence of sensuality, amid the transmutation of experiences.
8. Cherazade
The profumalchemico of mutual infatuation. That precise and nebulous olfactive moment when we feel attracted by the alien, and in order to know her or him we are called upon to trust and entrust. The olfactive seduction begins to act. To avoid being overcome we abandon ourselves on a bed of innocuous lavender and there, we initiate seduction by telling fairy notes of exquisite cocoa. And we let ourselves be permeated by the charm of our regained complement
9. Faunus
The profumalchemico of unconditional Love, pure Energy. Although it does not embody the fourth Chakra, Faunus is its olfactory manifestation. It is the impersonation of the good Iris, soffused, quietly diffusive and affectionate. Akin to the wings that embrace us and help us transform negative feelings into Love. Faunus is the palindromic profumalchemico of Cherazade : Love and relationship, one enclosed in the other and the Whole fostering transformation.
10. Jaune Rose
Born on Feb 16, 2011. The profumalchemico embodying complicity between opposites : instinct and reason. The essence of Eve, the first woman, and Kant, the philosopher of reason. Bound together by the respect for their respective identity. Dual fragrance, flowery in an overwhelming bouquet of orange, rose and ylang ylang blossoms, Jaune Rose lies down on a bed of intense powdered iris spread in vast coils. Intellect vaporized over instinct in the century of lights.
11. Gabri-EL
The profumalchemico introducing a concept hitherto deemed impossible, the union of opposites : water and fire, moon and sun. It consists of the pleasant sensual smell emanating from our skin when we make love and experience ecstasy. Verbena's green and dynamic notes introduce to an olfactory landscape made aromatic and healing by myrth. Then, slowly and steadily, with the act of love, takes shape the conception.
12. Avia Pervia
Brought to life on Apr 24, 2011 to attain Rebirth. The profumalchemico that makes impossible things easy. Ambered and spicy, flowery and mildly acidic at first, opens up to a vortex of woody, warm and caramelized chirping, in a harmonious composition. Good notes of powdered comfort extend in a vast persistence. Avia Pervia is the alchemical soul of Modena's traditional balsamic vinegar, the artistic outcome of an extractive-abstractive transmutational process, respectful of nature. Avia Pervia is the perfume of Modena, the perfume of Dreams.
